Improvement in sewing-machines for boots and shoes



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Sewi g-Machines for Boots and Shoes.

5 ParentedFeb.11,1873.

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W. DUCHEMEN.` Sewing-amines for Boots and Shoes. 135,787.

Patented Feb. H, 18 73.

6 Sheets--Sheet 3.. W. DUCHEMIN.

Sewing-Machines for Boots and Shoes. N0. 135,787. Patented Feb.11,1873.

iiD if 'i i MQW ` 6 Sheets--Sheet 4. W. DUCHEMIN. Sewing-Machines foroots and Shoes.

ented Feb. 11, 1873.

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6 Sheets--Sheet 5.

Patented Feb. 11,1873.

W. DUCHEMHN.

Sewing-Machines for Bums and Show.v No. 135,787.

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` w. |3uH1-:NHNr Sewng-Mahines for" Bouts and Shoes.

Patentedfeb. 11,1873.

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WILLIAM DUCHEMIN,l OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO GEORGE B. BGELOW, TRUSTEE, OF SAME PLACE.

IMPROVEMENT lN SEWING-MACHINES FOR BOOTS ANDSHOES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 135,757, dated February 11, 1873.

To all Vwhom it may concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM DUOHEMIN, of Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improved Machine for Sewing Turned Shoes, of which the following is a description, reference being had to the accompanying drawing, in which- Figure il, front View, quarter scale, legs of frame not shown; Fig. 2, side view, quarter scale, not showing, however, all parts; Fig. 3, face of plate, full size; Fig. el, back of plate, full size; Fig. 5, section view, full size, showing the manner and shape the stock is presented in order to be sewed; Fig. 6, section view of picker-up and its adjuncts; Fig. 7, section view of presser-arm and its adjuncts; Fig. 8, thread-carrier cam,- Fig. 9, needle and wedge cams Fig. l0, pickerup and presserarm cams; Fig. 1], feed and feed-presser cams.

In my improved machine I use two threads, carried by eye-pointed needles, and sew the shoe without a last. My needle being awlpointed, with an eye a short distance from its tip, makes a smooth hole, and does not 1nu tilate the upper when makin g its exit, while the second thread is laid in such manner against the upper, as will be hereinafter described, as to avoid puckering it. The mate rial of which the -shoe is composed, being relieved from the pressure of the last, is free to be drawn together by the thread, and it is also griped in such a manner as to give the stitch, when the shoe has been turned and beaten out, a circular upward curve, and at the same time the upper is pressedsecurely into the channel made forit in the sole. The shoe thus sewn is, after being removed from the machine, finished in the usual way. On the `circular piece EG, and directly under this, and having a roller fitted thereto, is one end of the lever f1. This lever, by means of a pin, plays freely up and down in the hanger f2 (see Fig. 2) tted to the frame of the machine for that purpose.

The outer end of this lever, by means of connectingrods f3 f5 and crank f4, governs the action of the wedge f6. Thus, whenthe projection EG is directly over the roll the outer end i of the ,lever f1 is depressed and brings up the parallel arm ofthe crank f4. This crank, by means of its perpendicular arm, communicates its motion at right' angles to the connectingrod f 5, and withdraws the wedge f 6 from the slot made for its reception in the standard g1. The wedge f6 is secured in position in such manner that it may traverse freely backward and forward. On its front it has a projecting lip, which passes through an opening in the box g5, while it is secured at its back by a round iron bar, one end of which is screwed into the back of the said wedge; the other passes freely throughan orifice drilled in the angle-piece fastened to the inside of the frame. On this round bar, and between the back of thewedge lfand the angle-piece, is a spiral spring, f, which serves to force forward and keep the wedge firmly in the slot f5', made in the standard g1, when not acted on by the projecting piece E6. g1 is the` standard to which is fastened the arm g4. This standard is fitted in the boxes g5 g in such a manner that it plays freely up .and down in said boxes. These boxes are fitted in recesses made for the purpose in the frame. On each side, and near the top of the box (f, parallel with its face, are two pivots7 on which the box hangs, and which permit the said box to oscillate freely. The upper box gi is tted in the recess in the frame in such manner that it is perfectly steady sidewise, but can be moved ont and in freely. At each end of the outer flange ot this box, fitted so they can traverse freely in said an ge, their ends tapped or screwed into the outer face of theframe, are two graduating-screws, gi, and in the back side of the recess in the frame at its center near the top is another graduatingscrew, g?, whose position is the reverse of the others. They act iu the following manner: The boxes g5 and y having the standard fitted in them are placed in the recesses in theframe, the box g5? hanging on its pivots. The two screws `g7 are passed through the outer flan ge of box gs and screwed into 'the frame untilthe back of said box touches the `adjustingscrew `set in the inside of the frame. By setting the back screws in and the front `screws out thetip of the arm is moved outward, andl by setting the 'outer screws 97 in and the back screw out the tip of lspiral springs g3.

e l tasas? the arm is moved in. lhis is a very important part of my invention,'for the reason that by regulating these screws themachine can be made to sew ay sole from the thinnest feathercdge up to the full thickness ofthe leather. 0n thestandard g1 is the cross-bar g2, on each end of which is a round bar running parallel with the standard 91,4011 which are set the rlhese springs are stiff yenough ,to keep the standard in the proper position vwhile the feed takes place, and are elastic enough to let the leather pass freely ,over the tip of the arm g4. At the upper end ofthe standard g1 is screwed the arm g4. The top ofl this arm g4 at the back is shaped at an angle of about fortyfive degrees. The front is roundedslightlyto.admit of the stock being kept clear of the threadcarrier biwhen the stitch'is being made, and, in conjunction with spring h4 `and sewing-gage K, molds or bends the sole, as it is being sewed, in such shape thatz the-stitch assumes the form of an upward curve when the shoe is beaten out, and is additionally tightened bythe process. On the outside circular face of the cani E3 is a recess-iive-eighths of an inch deep. 0n a line with said'face, and immediately under it, is the presser-bar'socket hl tted at its upper end ywith aYive-eighths roll. In this socket is a roundbar, h, having a cheok-nutat its upper end and a slot at its lower end, in which the innerv slottedA end of a lever, 11.2,.is held by means of a pin passing through bar It@ andv theslot-in the lever h2. The lower end of this rod fits/the orice in the stock, the upper portion ofthe. rodv being reduced sufficiently to allowaspiral spring, it, (see Fig. 7,) oi' the .diameter of.the.lower end to pass over. it.

Theholein the stock isdrilled the size ofthe outside diameter of s aid spring to near the top, andthenreduced to the `size .of the bar over which the spiral is placed.l The bar is conijinedin its .proper place by the checkt-nut, the springbeing. held at thc lower end by the oft'- set on the rod, andvat the l upper by the offset inn the fsocket. By setting up the nut any required pressure may be obtained. 7b2 isthe intermediate lever, the inner end` of which plays freelyin the slot in the bar h",resting upon and. guided by the pin through said bar and leverLs: The outer `end of lever h2 is roundedfor provided with a knuckle, which its in asocketfin the upper end of the presser-arm [L2-.said socket being larger than the pivot or knuckle at. the outer end ofthelever h2 to prevent straining the pivot. The arm, about midway down, isprovided with ashaft, placed at right angles to the armv and fitted to turn in bearings in theface-plate z.. At the eX- treme lower4 end of the arm is a 1aterally-pro jecting spur or foot, which operates the Apressure-spring h4. Y (See Fig. 2.) This spring fis secu-red to the crooked arm hlthat is fastened tothe platee forfthe purpose. i Onv the .top edge foi', the'` face-.plate is :fa pin, on-fwhich is placedthe spira-l spring, m.. T11is.pin passes into an oi'icedrilled, for that purpose in the socket h1,'thns confining the spring between they edge of thevplate z and the offset in the socket. The action of this spring is to throw up the socket h1 when relieved by the A.action of the cam E3. D irectly in line with the presserarm, its upper end being fastened to the backbrace q and its lower end to the face-platee, is an an gle-iron, in which is fastened the inclined plane hl. Near the lower end, on the inside of the presser-arm ha, with one end fitted on a pin placed in said arm for that purpose, the other fitted in a recess in the faceplate V2,-is the spiral h1. Its action is to throw back the presser-arm when released Aby the recess El from the pressure of the cam E3. Eiis the feed-cam, and d1 the feed-camfrod, provided at its upper end with a slot that is itted .to traverse smoothly over the driving-shaft, 1E, and with a roll that plays in the groove in the face of said cani, and at its lower end it has an `angularly-slotted adjustable plate, m3,:by the adjustment of which, by means ofra set` screw, the length of the feed can bevaried from nothing to halfl an inch. Thelower end of the plate m3 has a circular projection and the upper end has a circular slot, the lower projection tting accuratelyin the lower end of the cam-rod d1, and a set-screw passing through the circular slot in the top end and fastened in the said canrrod keeps it in place. The feed-slot, commencing from thefcenter of the'circular.projection in the plate m3, will alA ways be in the same position, however much the upper end may vary. d3 is the feed-can riage, iitted to the back ofthe plate z in such mannerthat it is free to traverse back and forth. .Atits upper end is a roll that plays in the slot. made in the plate m3 for that purpose, and at the extreme lower end oi' the carriage d3 is pivoted the feedpoint di.. .This point, at its uppervside, is provided with a slot in, which the roll on the lower end oi' the spring-rod-d j traverses, said rod being attached to the feedpresser carriage d6 by means of perforated studs orears in suchmanner that when the feed-point enters the leather it receives a solid pressure, andwhen the stock has been pierced it yields and gives the feed an elastic pressure-that is, the pressure will be firm enough to keepv the point in the work and yet .elastic enough vto allow the material to passfreely over the top ofthe arm. The carriage d@ is secured tothe face-,plate zby a slot and screw, d0, Fige, at its.V lower, and i-sguided by the screw-pind, Fig. l, at its upper end. .The spring-rod d8 isprovided at its lower end with a roll, and is turned Vto within'a short distance of its lower end to fit the .holes through the lugs on the carriage d6, and has a collar iitied on it in such manner that a spiral spring placed betweenjsaid collar and the yupper studl inthe carriage dfi-aids in giving-elasticity to the feed.;` At the.V upper endf of .the pin d8a roll-is tted`,'.which is actedon bythe project ing p ieceES. on. thecam ,E4 for. depressing .the

-spring cT and shoots into place.

.-of-k the i thread-carrier feed-point. On Athe upper edge of the faceplate z is the pin d5, surrounded by a spiral springfsaidpin passing through the projecting stud di' on feed-presser carriage d6, thus leather; then, by the action of the cam E4 on the cam-rodl d1, the Vrod is forced down the roller on the feed-carriage d3, traverses the angular slot in the platem, and the feed-point is forced forward. The presser-carriage d6 is then relieved of its pressure and is forced up by the spring. The point d4, relieved of its pressure,

.is drawn up, and the cam-rod d1 coming back `to' itsv place by the action of the cam, the feedpoint is brought back 'to' its starting point for a new stitch. -cl is the picker-up camrod. At

its lower end, and arranged so that it may play freely up and down in the carriage c2, to which the picker-up c is pivoted, and near the top end of this carriage, there is a small hole for the reception of the locking-bolt cf", set in the low-` er end of thecam-rod c1, as shown in section in Fig. 6. The head of `this' bolt c6 has :two

right-angular slots, one of which receives the` lower end of the spring c7, and allows it to play freely therein, and the other the upper end of the tripper @5,provided with a projection or lip at its extreme lower end. Directly back of the tripper, and immediately over it,

`and secured to the back-brace q by the screw c?, is the trip-bar o9. In the slot at the lower end ofthe cam-rod '01,through which the top end of the picker-up c passes, as shown in Fig. 6, `andbelow a spur on the end of picker- -up c a pin c is inserted, thus forming a square cavity for the reception of the upper end of the picker-up c. On the front side of the camrod c1, immediately over the carriage c2, is an offset in which isa recess to receive the pin-c0 andspiral spring, th'elower end of which rests on said pin, and its upper end against the bottom of the recess in the rod c1. When the .picker-up is at rest the spring on pin co keeps the picker-up point c3 firmly against the `plate z, as shown `in` Fig; 6. When at work the cam-rod c1 is forced down by the action of the cam E3, the carriage c2 moving with it until 4its lower end-'touches the lower side ofthe recess in the plate e, when it yremains stationary.` Thecam-rod c1, still moving, acts on the .backwardly-projecting upperend of the picker-up c, thus forcing its point c3 outward between the thread-carrier `and its thread. -When the cam-rod has reached its lowest point `the locking-bolt is acted 011 by its The Apick'eru p .pointis now thrown out, having thethread on it, and-the spiral spring on pincofon '.thetopfof the carriage is depressed in theV cavity in the cam-rod c. The picker-up remains in this position until raised to a sufficient height to place the thread held by its point between the jaws of the fingers, at which time the upper end of the tripper c5 will be acted on by the lower side of the stationary trip-bar o9, and the bolt c will be drawn Aout of the carriage 5 and, as the camrod cl still 'continues its upward motion, the carriage, being free and acted on by the spring, will remain down, and the pin in the rod c will act on the end of the picker-up c and throw its point c3 back into the recess made for it in the plate Le. The thread that was on the picker-up point having been deposited 'between the jaws of the fingers, the jaws close when the recess x on picker-up c reaches the pin on the outside of the upper finger n. 1 The point of the picker-up then recedes, the threadcarrier b4 is withdrawn, andthe loop forming the outside of the stitch is formed. On the face-plate z, immediately over the needle a, with a protruding spur, a9, which passes through said plate, is the carriage nl, to which the fingers are secured by a pivot-joint formed 'by a screw-bolt, n2, screwed in said carriage and through asoclret in the top end of the inside arm ofthe ngers n. On the top of the carriage u1, and extending at right angles directly over the upper edge of the plate z, is a small ange,

vin which is an adjusting-screw, n", the function of which will be hereinafter described.

`Directly over and nearly in line with the out.-

side arm of said ngers, fastened to the camrod c1, is the, plate c4. (See Fig. 6.) This plate opens the jaws of the fingers just enough to Y drop the loop on the loop-threadcarrier iminediately after its entrance into the recess formed for that purpose inthe bottom endol the fingers n. i On the plate e, near its top side, with ,an adjusting-slot, and fastened thereto by a screw-bolt, is the block, h5, the function of which is to throw the ngers into position to take the thread from` the picker-np after they have deposited the loop on the thread-carrier b4. Lower down, secured by a pivot-joint and provided with a spring to keep it in position, is the latch n6-,the function vof said latch being to enable the lingers to resist the friction of the point of the thread-carrier :as it passes under them to receive the loop, and to retain them in the position they assume :after the feed has taken place, and previous to their depositing the loop. This it does by latching on to a square stud set for the purpose onthe inner side of the inside4 finger-arm.` vLower down, secured `by a pivot-joint, is `.the loopgage u?, "which serves to give the loop l the required length.l n is a plate, the outside surface vof 'which forms the" working-plane ofthe fingers, and its inside surface, in conjunction with a recess in the plate va, `f orms a groovein which the guideon the feed-armimmediately over the ieed-point'traverses, thus guiding' and steadying thefeed. i`nls'thefinger-lifter,

pivoted Ion the back of-tlieplate e, the extreme upper and of its upper arm being immediately under the pin or spur a9 in the fin ger-carriage, v

and the extreme end of its other arm resting against the projecting inner edge in a recess .made for that purpose at the lower end of the back of the thread-carrier carriage IF for liftby a cam, m2, placed at the lower end of said cam-rod-for that purpose. This let-off is provided with a spring to vkeep it to its work. Supposin g the fingers to be latched in the position they assume immediately after the feed lias'taken place and preparatory to forming a stitch,f the perpendicular arm ofthe lifter, acted I on by the downward motion of the thread-carrier carriage 117, is forced outward, raising its horizontal arm on whichrrests the projecting` pin a9 of the needle-carriage, thus raising the lin ger. This action commences when the point of the thread-carrier has entered the fingers aE sufficient distance to insure said carriers passing lthrough the loop held by said fingers.. Just before the lift takes place the inclined yplane'on the inner side of the plate c4., before mentioned, by the action of the cam-rod c1, is

'brought to bear-on the upper end of the out- -g1side arm of theiingers, and depresses such arm slightly, opening the jaws just enough to let thelloop free. The fingers, thus freed, rise perpendicularly until the square stud, before named, is clear of the clutch ofthe latch a0, when the block a5, acting onthe inclined pl ane i .l made for the purpose on the side and near the top ofthe inside arm of the fingers, throws Y them over into posi-tion to take the thread.

from the picker-up. In the side of the outside arm of the lingers is apin, so placed thatl A :it is acted on by the picker-up arm c, which,

vin coming outvto pick up the thread from the i thread-carrier, .bears against the pin and keeps the ngels Open until the thread is placed between 1thejaws by the picker-up, when the picker-up springs back, as before explained.l As the cam-rod c1 rises, the fingers are acted -on by the conical sprin g at their top end, close over the thread. The thread-carrier b4 then recedes, and as its cam-rod a1 is drawn up the lifter n4 is relieved, which allows the nv gers, through the action of the spring m4 on y .the plate 2 tofall until the projecting pin a9 in their carriage rests in the notch made for that purpose in the let-off nf. This lets them i down just enough for the square pin on the inner side of the inside-arm of the n gers to bear -against the which by its actionfkeeps themfirmly braced A against the Aaction of the tension in bringing extreme end of the loop-gage a7,

the loop home. rThey remain-in this position "until the eye of the needle c, as it-recedes,

enters the stock, when, by the action'of`4 the cam-block m2 on the needley cam-rod alrat its lower end, the let-off a6 is forced back-.and lets the fingers drop until they are free from the resistance of the loop-gage a7, thus leaving them at perfect freedom, when they are drawn by the tension of the needle-thread directly in line with said needle, and the slack thread of the loop, by the sametension, is drawn in, thus forming a secure lock-stitch. The loop, being thus drawnV tight, takes the fingers with it,

.when the feed moves the work forward. .The

latch n0, by reason of its spring, yields until the stud before named is over the recess formed .for its reception, when it springs into place and the n gers are secured ready for the next stitch. E2 is the needle-cam. al is the needle-cam rod, provided with aroll at its upper and pivoted to the needle-carriage a2 at its lower end. This needlecarriage is circular in form, and is made to play freely and steadily in the ,needle-carriage race c3. In its outerl face a groove is cut of suitable proportions to take the needle. The needle is fastened to the carriage a2 by a small segmental plate, also provided with a groove, through which .two screws pass into the carriage a2. The needle is passed between the two and held firmly by the action of the screws on said4 plate. The canrrod c! is pivoted in its place by a screw-bolt, not seen, iii a cavity formed for that purpose, the face of .the needle-carriage c2 forming one side and aI lug firmly secured on said carriage the other. The pivot passes freely through the lug, and is screwed into the carriage c2. The end of the cam-rod lits perfectly into a circular joint made for that purpose. This is done that the pivot may not be strained inv forcing the needle through the leather. On the backof the needle ra ce a there is fastened an an gularY piece, inf, the lower end of which (see Fig. 2, but not .shown in Fig. 3) has a boss, m?, groovedin line with the needle a6 to receive the needle-thread on its passage to the needle. Alittle back ol this boss,and fastened to a standard provided for that purpose, is a roll, t1, whose grooveis in line withthe groove cut in the ,boss m9. At the back of this roll is a'sinall sprin g-plate,

which just touches its extreme edges and keeps v the thread in the groove when the tension is slackenedby the action of the cam-rod al. The thread is passed over the roll, through the groove in the boss, to the eye of the needle, and when the full tension is on the thread the roll, and not the needle, takes .the strain.;

The motion of vthe lneedle c6 ispeculiar. When acted on by its cam it is brought forward until the inner end of the eye is oueeighth of an inch beyond the line of the thread-carrier b", when it recedes a little to slacken the thread for the passage of the threadcarrier b4, and remains stationary until said threadfcarrier has performed its part informing the stitch. ,The needle then; movesforricr cam-rod.

ly to insure the ATo thread the carrier brought over the roll m10, attached to the frame 1 standard p2, Fig. 2,

13ans? 5 Ward again, bringing' its full tension to bear, by this means fastening the loop'dropped by the thread-carrienin its'return to the position it assumes just before taking a stitch. El is the thread-earriencam. b1 isthe thread-car-V4 This rod terminates in a car riage, bl, that traverses freely-in a recess made V for it in the back of the plate z. About midway in the center of this carriage is the pinl b2, which traverses in a slotmade in the lever b3. The inner end of this lever is connected :to the back of theplate z by a pivot-joint,A and i its outer end by ascrew to the Vcircular carriage b", which traverses in` a circular recess in the outer face of the plate e. v To the lower end of this carriage b5 the thread-carrier b4 is secured by the segmental plate ba, said plate being provided with screws for that purpose.

Onthe innerside of the carriage bl-is formed a recesswhich terminates in an inclined plane, and which, .operatingon the angular lever n", lifts the fingers u, as Ybefore described.` By

`the action of the cam-E1 -is given tothe cam-rod b1, whose pin b2 moves .the cross-lever. and the a downward motion When the thread-carrierrhas gone the length of its `throw it remains stationary. until. its threadis taken by the picker-upc, when it returns, tightening its thread, and then moves i forward a little to slacken its thread sucientproper interlocking of the threads. 4On the upper end of the circular carriage b5 is fastened the projeetiugring b9, and

on plate z, immediately below it between two iriction-plateabw, is the grooved thread-can.

rier tension roll blo.

This roll works freely about its pivot, while the friction-.plates between which it traversesiremain stationary.

Over the outside friction-plate there is a circular'spring-plate, bu, which, acted on bythe thumb-nut bproduces the necessary press- Vure on the plates and roller, andgoverns the `tension on the thread. l i

b4 the thread must be Im", and woundY twice roundthe tensionroll blo, then through the ring b9, passing inward, then under the roll m7, and Vinto-the eye ofthe thread-carrier b". This threadroll m7 has a groovecut round it and a spring-plate at its 1 a lower edge, i Acoming olf said roll when slackenedby the acwhich prevents thethread from ter, has aslot iu which is fastened an independent` roll, p.- .Near the outer endofthe barlis a pin, pt, which traverses in a slot made A :in the topend-of thestandard'p.` These slots are made `at right angleswiththe groove in `which'the teusionbar p traverses, and termicircular carriage b5.

nate in an upward curve y at the outer end. -J ust.beyond the pin the bar. p is bent down at `right angles,-the lower end of the bentarm resting onl the face of the standard p2. At its inner end, on the side nearest the cam-rod al, `is fastened the block. p5, whose lower surface lis concaveddownward On the side'of the -standard p2, between two frictionfplates, is the needle tension-roll p8, made in all respects, ex cept size, like thetension device bw.. In the bottom of the: standard (its upper end pressing against the tension-harp) is. an angular spring, ya", intended tokeep the bar steady while at work. Fastened to the back-brace g, immediately'under the bar p, is` the upright p6. The `object of these devices is to give a repeating tensionl-that is, tension when the needle ismaking the -last quarter of its outward course to finish the stitch previously set, and tensionwhen-it is making the last quarter of its return to insure the interlocking' ofthe thread in forming the stitch. When at work, `and the cam-rod i al has a downward motion, .the tension-bar islforced forward by -the spring p7, when, by means of thebent arml resting on the face of the standard, and the pin 124 working in the slots7 a longelliptic motion ,is given to thebar` p, `thus throwing `the long lip of the concaved block p5 suddenly over the roll p1, and the pin p4 out Vof the curve in the slot in which. it traverses, thus giving slack thread. When the canrrod al hastraversed two-thirds of its distance down, the'bar 1i is checked `by theupright196, ,the banthus remaining stationary,A and as the needle camrod al still continues to move downward, the thread is tightened while then'eedle is moving forward through the leather and` in: its, last quarter forward movement. -In rising fromlits downward throw, the 'cam-rod nl makesf onethird of-its distancebefore the tension-bar moves, thus giving. the-slack thread required until the .lastquarter ofthe return movement, whenyby the action of the arm bearingsagainst the face of the standard p2, the pin pi is forced :up the inclinedplane in theslots p2, andthe concaveblock 125 up over the roll p1.,- thus giving the-thread strongtension to draw. the stitch. K is the sewing-gage',fastened 'tof the plate and projecting about half'lan` inch below the bottom ofthe said plate. .llt-has two distinct functions, viz., that of guidingthe shoe 4-while being moved forward.bythefeed-point d4, and also: of governing the entrance ofthe needle into the leather as each. stitch is being' formed.: For thislaftter purpose, on the `upper side of its :foot :it is provided withia segmental groove ofthe samediameteras and in which the needle-works, andthisA groove is deep enoughto allow the point on ltheneedle to come directlyin the'centerof the channel in the sole, while the projections'fon` either side of the grooveservetofkeep theL stock l clear ofthe needle whilefrperforming its work. The' 'needle a6 is circular vinform, andprovided i'rom' said carrier.

a inane? fromits point', and near this eye, `on the sideI neXt the thread-carrier b4, the body of the needle is cut away or inclined about two-thirds;

across the top side and down to the lower face.v 'Ihe needle is so shaped because the side of the needle. rEhe inclined plane,'there fore.' is to aid the while the pressure of the nger keeps the carrier-point in close contact with the needle, andv the carrier passes between the needle and its thread. The lower side of the needle is grooved deep enoughl to keep the thread clear of the stock when it is at work. The thread-carrier b4. is made just wide enough totraverse in the groove made for its reception in the lower end of the'fingers, is provided with an eye near its point for the reception of its thread; and just behind'the inner end of the eye, at right angles with it, there is groove, deepest on its inner side, in which the point fof the picker-up c3 passes to take'the loop The bottom of the carrier b4 is made angling to suit the curve of the needle, landisiprovided with a groove Von its under side deep enough to keep the thread clear of touching the needle as it passes over it. The 'back brace q is a straight bar, secured to the back and in line with the top side of the platez 'and has two functions-one to strength- (en the"`plate,v the other to keep the working. parts of the machine firmly in their pla-ces.

To. set lthe needle b4k in working position, bring'the circular carriage b5 to the extreme length of its outward throw; then place it in the slot in the carriage and under the segmental plate be, and so that its point will enter the slot cut in the 'standard s of the pressure-arm c3. The groove at the inner end of the eye of b'4 will then be directlyr under the picker-up, so that the picker-up point may pass through itin taking the loop. The function of the standards is to keep the thread-carrier in position to receive the picker-up and enable it to resist the friction of the picker-up in passing through itsv groove and taking the thread.

In threading the-needle a, give the thread two turns roundthe tension-roll p at the bottom-of the standard p2, commencing from the top of said roll, inward; thence to the inner side ando'ver the roll p3 in the bar j); thence under the roll m6 in the angular brace on the needle-race a3; thence through the groovein the boss m9, and'through the eye oi' the needle from the bottom side. In passing over the roll p3 thethread is crossed in order to keep it clear' of the back brace q.

To place the shoe on the machine, depress the standard g1 by placing the foot in the stirrupironzat its lower end; then turn the fly-'wheel y forward until the feed-point d* comes down for the Lpurpose of piercing the work preparatory carrier in passing over it,-

a small half-round to movingit, then turn the' wheel .back to raise-said point until it nearly touches.. the

bottom of the platee,- ithen place thefoot'of the sewing-,gage K-wellin the inner channel of the shoe, just atthe edge of the counter of said shoe; then let'the standard g1 rise to its position, and set the-machine at work. These. directions being followed, and the shoe-in lposition, the wedge f6, by the action of thev spi-f ral spring f, is forced in its'recess in stand'- ard gl. rIhe presser-arm 7b3, acted on by itsadjuncts, is brought to bear n the presserspring h4, when the shoe assumes the position rIhe needle is then brought forward about half a revolution,"when it recedes and remains stationary long enough to allow the thread-carrier-Nto pass under its thread.- Vhen the thread-carrierb* has comy. pleted its forward movement,the picker-up c shown in section in Fig. 5.

springs forward and lifts the thread thus vpresented to it by the carrier b, and deposits it between the jaws of the fingers a, which have beenlifted into position by the lifter n4. lThe picker-up then falls ba-ck to its original posir I tion, and the thread-carrier b4 then recede's'. When the thread-carrier is half-way loack, andv before its tension is brought to bear on theY loop, the lifter a4 is relieved, and the 'fingers'u fall until caught by the let-off a6; 'but they are stillheld forward by the loop-gage ai to give the loop'the proper length. When, by

the action ofthe carrier b4, the loopis formed,

the needle@G again moves forward1','thus setting the previous stitch, but lbefore thislast f movement of the needle 'a6 the carrierV b4 has completed its backward movement and dropped the loop it received from the* iingers n when coming forward, and it'has also moved forward a little,'thus leavingtliefneedle a6 free l1 to tighten the previous stitch, as aforesaid. rIhe needle et then recedes to its original posi'- tion, and, just as its-eye touches theV stock, the..-

let-off a6, acted on by the cam-block m2 onrthe lower end of the cam-rod al, lets the fingers 'nv drop clear of the loop-gage 127, leaving them free to be acted on by the tension'of thencedle-thread, which draws them directly over the needle a6. released, the thread-carrier b4 comes forward far enough to give slack thread, thus allowing the needle-thread to'interlock firmly with the loop held by the fingers al The presserarm h3 relieves the springjz, the feed-point@4 is forced into the stock, the wedge f6 is removed, andthe work moved forward Ato receive another stitch.

In building machinesA attention must be paid tothe following dimensions and positions of the parts named: The needle being on a three-inch circle,- the grooves in which it is secured must be the same diameter, and its race must be situated on the backjof the plate z', Y

so that the center of the needles circle will 'be one-quarter of an inch from'the outer face of the plate z, and one'inch from lits bottom edge.

The thread-carrier carriage b5 must be so sit'- At` the Vsame time they 'are soV .i1-ated that the bottom side ofthe carrier 7)* -the plate z three thirty-seconds. of an inch.

as the carrier I)4 has made its full throw forwill touch the top `side of the needle a6. This. carriage works on aneight-inch circle. To ind its center horizontally, strike a perpendicularlline directly over the needle. Said center will be one-quarter of an inch from the perpendicular line toward" the carrier.- The car-4 riage must project from the vface of the plate, so that the inner side of the carrier b* will be an eighth of an inch from the face of said plate 2.

The extreme tip of the sewing-gage foot K must beiive-sixteenths of an inch from the face ofthe plate z, and set so that the groove at itsupper side will touch the lower side lof the needle a6. A

The plate n, on which the iingersplay when in motion, should project beyond the face of The lower s ide ot' the recess at the top of the inner side of the arm of the under finger n on which the graduating block a5 operates in throwing the iin gers into position for receiving the loop, should be three-quarters of an inchv lower than the center of the pivot on which saidfmgers play, and one-eighth-,of an inch deep. f l

The clutch at the end of the latch n0 must be in such relative position with the square stud; on the back side of the inner linger-arm a that it will latch on said stud when thefingers are4 brought forward by the action of the feed, and must be one-eighth of an inch deep.

The bottom side of the point of the pickerup c3 should bein suchposition thatfitwill touch the bottom of the groove at the point of the thread-carrierl)u1 while passing out to take the loop; and the recess w, made in the picker-up c', must be deep enough to allow the iingers to close whenthe spur at the side of the outer finger `n drops therein, thus enabling the linger to close before the loop is `dropped by the picker-up c. j f

The jaws of the ngers must close over one another in such a manner as to give the thread of the thread-carrier b4, which they take, a quarter turn. l

The thread-carrier cam E1 should beso timed with the needle-cam E2 that the point ofthe thread-carrier b", when in position, will touch the side cf the needle nearest it inkits groove just as said needle hasbeen drawn back to slacken its thread for the carrier to pass.

The picker-up cam E3 should be `so timed that thepicker-up point c3 will spring out just ward and reached its support, the standard s.

The feed-can1 Ei must be timed so that it will movethe feed-point forward when the needle has completed its revolution forward andback and is at rest. 1

The feed-pressure cam, situated onl the outside of the cam E4, should be so timed that it will send -the feedpoint d4 into the stock just before the wedge fis withdrawn from the siandardr-.. Y

The recess in the cam E3 must be so timed The cams E1 and Efface, in opposite directions*El to the. left, E2 to the right. El lits over a boss, i', on the side of E2, and is rml y attached to it by means of a screwthrough the graduating-slot r1, in E1,`Figs. 8 and 9. The cams E3 and E*` are similarlyfastened together by means of the boss r2 on E3, and slot r3 and set-screw in E4, Fi

faces to the left, E4 to the right.

rlhe presser-spring h4 must be so placed that there will be a space between its extreme outer point and the shoulder of the outsidechannel of the thickness of the upper stock." Thus the upper stock is pressed firmly against the sole without injuring said shoulder, and will give a perpendicular surface wherethe needle pierces it, thus enabling the presser-spring h4 to govern thepassage ofthe needle a through the sole and upper, as each stitch is being made.

The spring h4 is provided with a slot in its lower arm where attached to standard h,vsc that it may be set forward or back to suit the various thicknesses to be sewed.

I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, Yin a machine for sewing turned shoes with a double thread, and without a lastl. Thetneedle and thread-carrier, combined and operating, as described, so that the needle i a has a positive movement` forward, as explained, after the thread-carrier has'been with drawn, in order to tighten the previousstitch.

2. The combination, with the threadcarrier b4, of the picker-up c3, and fingers ii, these parts being constructed and operating substantially as described.

3. nl Combination with the. thread-Carrier t1 and fingers n, the loopgage nl, for determining the length of the loop formed by said threadcarrier and iingers, substantially Vas described. A i et. The take-up lever p, operated bythe camrod al, slotted standard p2, and spring imparting tension to the needle-thread at each end of the stroke of the needle, substantially as described.

, 5. The adjustable stop p, in combination with theV take 11p-lever p, and the tension-roll for regulating the tension of the needle-thread during the forward stroke of the needle, substantially as described. j

(i. The combination of the slotted standard p2, the bar p, and rollers pl p p8, substantially as describet. E

7. The combination of the` sewing-'gage K,

having its u asset forth. f

8. In combination with a .needle or athreadV ppe'r su'rfac'efcurved,` substantially gs. 10 and 11.. Ef*

p7, for l 10. The block u", in combination with the nger u and nger-oarriage nl, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

l1. In combination with standard g1, the sebscrew gi, for lavdjustiilg the position of the top of the arm g9 relative to the sewing-gage K and presser-spring h4, substantially :1s described.

\VILLM. DUGHEMIN. vWitnesses:

H. H. DOUBLEDAY, J oHN BIGELOW. 

